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Perched on a desolate rock in Russia’s far east, on the coast of Siberia, an eerie lighthouse stands abandoned, left to decay amidst the relentless elements. Despite its remote location and the daunting journey required to reach it, this forsaken structure on Cape Aniva Island draws hundreds of intrepid tourists each year.
The Aniva Lighthouse, also known as Nakashiretoko, was built by Japanese engineers between 1937 and 1939. The island, then split between Japanese and Russian control, was a strategic maritime location between the Sea of Japan and the Sea of Okhotskoe. The lighthouse was essential for guiding ships through the perilous waters, notorious for their underwater currents, frequent fog, and hidden rocky shoals. Its light, rotating on a bed of liquid mercury, was visible up to 19 nautical miles, offering a beacon of safety in treacherous seas.
Constructing this nine-story concrete behemoth, which stands 100 feet above the waves, was no small feat. The island’s inaccessibility by land and the challenges of reaching it by boat made the task herculean. Yet, the Japanese engineers succeeded, and the lighthouse became a critical asset for maritime navigation.
After World War II, the southern half of the island, including the lighthouse, became part of the Soviet Union. The structure underwent several modifications but remained a vital navigational aid. However, maintaining it proved difficult. The remote location and harsh conditions led to frequent equipment failures, necessitating constant upkeep and resource delivery, a challenging task given the lighthouse’s isolation.
In 1990, the Soviet authorities decided to convert the Aniva Lighthouse into an autonomous operation. To achieve this, they installed a nuclear battery powered by a radioisotope thermoelectric generator, a technology also used in NASA space probes. The Strontium-90 atomic batteries allowed the lighthouse to operate for a decade without needing recharging. It was one of 132 Soviet lighthouses powered in this manner.
The lighthouse continued its silent vigil until 2006, when the nuclear batteries finally depleted. Since then, the lighthouse has stood dormant, its light extinguished, and its structure left to the ravages of time and weather. Despite this, the derelict site has become a magnet for adventurers and history enthusiasts worldwide, drawn by the allure of its eerie isolation and historical significance.
Visiting the Aniva Lighthouse is not for the faint of heart. The journey involves a 90-minute drive to the nearest settlement, followed by a two-hour boat trip and a treacherous climb up the rocks using ropes to reach the lighthouse’s base. The site itself, though largely safe, is slowly deteriorating. Concrete remains steadfast, but brickwork, metal doors, and other structures are rusting and decaying, raising concerns about future safety.
Despite these challenges, those who brave the journey are rewarded with a unique experience. Standing atop the lighthouse, one can witness breathtaking views of the surrounding sea and rugged coastline. The imposing structure, now a ghostly grey, still bears traces of its former striped paint, hinting at its once vibrant past.
“It always has a ‘wow-effect’ on visitors,” says Kulikov, a guide familiar with the site. “The lighthouse looks epic: rugged and unyielding, it stands defiantly in the middle of the sea, overhanging a steep cliff.”
The Aniva Lighthouse, frozen in time, serves as a sad reminder of a bygone era. Its haunting presence and the lost stories of its past continue to captivate those who make the arduous journey to its remote location. As it stands against the relentless elements, the lighthouse remains as proof of human ingenuity and the unescapable passage of time.
This story appeared in the
Jul/Aug 2024 edition of Lighthouse Digest Magazine. The print edition contains more stories than our internet edition, and each story generally contains more photographs - often many more - in the print edition. For subscription information about the print edition, click here.
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